Semana Santa Ecuador 2014

I can sum up my spring break vacation in Ecudor in just a couple of bullet points:

• The Galapagos is AWESOME and totally worth the trip (splurge and get the 8 day boat tour- there is just so much to see and do!)
• Ecuador is modern, fun and full of incredibly nice people
• Don't check a bag on Tame airlines! If you do, get insurance! 

Walli and I had a wonderful time exploring the Ecuadorian coast from Guayaquil up to Los Frailes National Park. In addition, we did the quick and dirty Galapagos tour, spending three glorious days in the Galapagos islands. We booked our hotels and Galapagos day trips through imagineecuador.com and were very pleased with the places we stayed and the tours we got. In Guayaquil, we stayed at the RE Bed and Breakfast. There, the staff was so helpful in my efforts to recover my bag from Tame Airlines (which took six whole days, despite all of our combined efforts). In the Galapagos, we stayed in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island in Hotel Ninfa, which was also lovely with great staff (and food!)

Walli and I spent our first day in Guayaquil exploring some of the highlights that were suggested to us by our cab driver who took us to our B and B from the airport the previous evening. First, we checked out the zoo and historical park there. It was FABULOUS. There were a ton of animals in really spacious, well-kept enclosures. Along with the zoo was a beautifully constructed replica of the Guayaquil Malecon (boardwalk) from the early 20th century. The grounds and buildings were lovely, and we enjoyed strolling through all the exhibits. That afternoon, we checked out the Malecon circa 2014, which was a mile long and ran along the large Guayas river that created the edge of the city. The river eventually fed in to the pacific, which was why it only took us an hours drive the next day to reach the pacific coast.

On our way to the park, we had met another lovely cab driver named Christopher who, for a reasonable fee, offered to take us up and down the coast, seeing various beaches for the day. We thought that was a stellar idea so on Monday at 6am we took off with Christopher to explore the Ecuadorian coastline. In one short hour we had reached the coast and drove along through coastal pueblos for about an hour more until we reached Montanita. Montanita is a random expat haven surrounded by normal South American pueblos. It comes out of no where along the main road- large, well-built posadas, Western-styled restaurants, street vendors selling cocktails and ceviche and lots and lots of white people in their 20's. 

We arrived early, so there were not many people out. We walked along the streets, seeing the havoc of the night before. Montanita is famous for it's love and legality of marijuana and late night partying, but in the morning, it was quite pleasant and quiet. We spent some time shopping, as I still was bagless and needed at least a bathing suit, sunscreen and underwear. After acquiring the needed items, the three of us sat at a little restaurant along the malecon and enjoyed a delicious Ecuadorian breakfast, complete with a batida (fruit milkshake that is acceptable to drink any time of the day). We left Montanita and continued down the coast, where we stopped at a delicious hole-in-the-wall pie shop and I had a passion fruit merange. It was AMAZING. Our journey ended at Los Frailes National Park, a beautiful, secluded park with a wonderful beach. We stayed for a few hours walking, swimming, reading and generally enjoying our afternoon. On the way back to Guayaquil, we stopped again at the pie shop so I could get another pie, and then again in Montanita so I could get Cheviche. This set the trend of the trip, where all decisions were based on my food interests:).

The next day, still without bag, we flew the 1.75 hours from Guayaquil to the Galapagos. We flew into Baltra airport, which was interestingly an old American base in World War II. From Baltra, you can take a quick ferry over to Isla Santa Cruz, where you drive 42 kilometers to the main port, Porta Ayora. It's such a pleasant little coastal town, with shops and restaurants, parks, and a volleyball court and skate park right on the water. The animals abound, even in the town. Pelicans and sea lions were everywhere along the dock, and land iguanas were plentiful as you walked towards the Charles Darwin center, which is on the edge of town. On the way to Puerto Ayora, we stopped in to a turtle reserve and hiked through a 400 meter long lava tunnel! What a way to start our adventure! That evening, Walli's foot was bothering her, so I set off alone to find the infamous "street of food vendors", which I quickly found about four blocks up from the waterfront. There were about 15 or so vendors lining each side of the street, with tables taking up the whole street in between. I settled on one that had a display of what looked like shrimp cream of wheat, which turned out to be called shrimp souffle. It was AMAZING and I washed it down with a batida. 

The next two days we took day trips to two other islands- Fernandina and Isabela. Each day, we would load onto a speed boat and spend a solid two hours making our way to and from the island. It was always worth it to get there, but next time I come to the Galapagos (with my Mom!) we are going to stay on a big boat and travel at night while we are asleep:). Fernandina was my favorite- we got to visit old pirate caves, see the homestead of the first inhabitants of the islands, visit a tortoise reserve with a TON of big tortoises (and saw some tortoise hookie!), then we had a delicious fish lunch and I got to snorkel along the beach, where I saw a huge green sea turtle and some really huge, bright parrot fish! We also met some friendly sea lions at the dock and a happy penguin who followed our boat as we departed. Isabela was great too- we got to go to a lookout and see the whole island, including it's five volcanoes. I got to do a little snorkeling as well, but there were so many kicking kids in the water I didn't get to see much. After Isabela, when we came home, I went to go eat at the dock, where they literally brought in the fish and cooked them right there. While the ladies cut the fish, there were pelican and sea lions begging for food, just like dogs or cats back home! I sat and watched the sunset and ate my delicious fresh fish and felt so happy.

Then it was all over too soon! We were back in Guayaquil for our last day and a half- finally with my bag! We visited the artisan market where I perfected haggling in Spanish, saw the small but nice art museum along the malecon AND walked up the 444 steps through the historical barrio, La Pena, to the top where we got to see the whole city from the famous lighthouse. 

The best part was of course the hole in the wall restaurant we found in the barrio where for $6 we feasted while overlooking the Guaya and basking in the glow of a vacation well spent. Walli was the best travel partner I could have asked for; we are both flexible, adventurous and can deal with foot and bag problems like pros! It was such a great trip- and so exciting to see another country! We arrived back ready to face the next eight weeks in Caracas before our much deserved summer vacation back in the US of A. :)

What a Wonderful 30th Birthday!!!!

Well the birthday bar has certainly been set. It will be incredibly hard to top my 30th birthday week. I felt surrounded by love from all directions and from different continents!

My actual birthday was one great surprise after another. I woke up and made my way to school as normal. I was greeted by some of my girlfriends with presents in hard, including a huge bag of special, hard to find Venezuelan chocolate chip cookies! The day got even better when, unbeknowst to me, my principal sent an email out to ALL the students telling them to be extra nice to me for my birthday, and boy were they! I got so many hugs and birthday wishes- I don't think the kids had ever been that nice to me:). Some of the girls in the 4th grade even got me some cake! I actually had double cake, because my friends got a huge Marquesa for all of us to share at lunchtime. Boy was I a happy (and full!) girl!

After school, I was supposed to have dinner with Ivan just the two of us. I was worried, because the city was an absolute mess. The guarimbas were out in full force, setting up barricades everywhere and generally reeking havoc. I was so afraid that Ivan would never reach me, as there was a lot of trouble on the streets between his work in the city center and my house in the eastern suburbs. He didn't arrive until around 7, and when he did he needed beer. Apparently, all the metro stations were closed except for the one in the heart of the trouble- Altamira. He had to get off there because he couldn't go further, and from there, tried to find a mototaxi that wouldn't price gauge him. He finally found one that charged twice what was normal, rather than the five times normal the others were charging. Once they got on their way they literally drove through tear gas at one point when they were getting to the motorway....I would say that's about as close as you can get to having someone "walk through fire" to get to you! After he arrived, we left for my favorite nearby Italian restaurant. To my surprise, when we arrived, there was a table for twenty filled with all of my friends! They pulled a fast one on me!  What was supposed to be a romantic birthday evening turned into a great time with most of my closest friends, many of whom braved flaming garbage and tear gas to get there. Wow did I feel so special!

It's hard for things to get better after such a wonderful birthday, but they certainly did this weekend. Me, Ivan, Ivan's Mom Nereida and 10 of my closest friends flew to paradise: Los Roques. Los Roques is the beach we went to in December that is a half hour flight from Caracas. Most of our group had not been before, so it was wonderful to watch my friends enjoy their beach weekend. At the beach, we celebrated both my birthday as well as Tendai's 40th birthday and Chris and Nereida's birthdays. Lots of Aries in my group! Colleen as always brought the party, complete with 30th birthday shot glasses, 40th birthday coozies and a variety of pirate themed party favors. The pirate eye patches were a great accompaniment to the rum! We visited two islands, one each day, the first being Cayo de Agua, the farthest island in the archipelago. It was so beautiful! There was a sand bar in the middle of the two island connecting them- standing there with water on each side was just a magical feeling. What was not magical was the one hour boat ride there and back that about did Jackie, Tendai and I in. I needed two aspirin and two hours of hammock time when we returned just to recover! But after my recovery time we had a great dinner and Ivan and I finally got our romantic date time walking around the island to the light of a very bright and beautiful half moon. And the stars were just wow! After so much time in the city you start to forget what the stars look like. 

The next morning, Ivan and I got another view of the island, hiking to the top of the small mountains at the edge of the little town. From there we watched a beautiful sunrise and got to see the entirety of "Gran Roque". After our morning trek, we had an equally fabulous breakfast and went back to our favorite island from out last trip- Francisky. There we were able to do some awesome snorkeling, eat fresh seafood and walk well out into the water on another really cool sandbar. And this time, I managed not to kill any lizards!

It was such an amazing trip. We were all on cloud nine when we made it back to Caracas, though the traffic and reports of barricades blocking the main highway brought us quickly back to reality. Monday we were all bummed when our superintendent made the call to have virtual school- THEY HAD WIRELESS BACK AT THE POSADA IN LOS ROQUES!!! Epic Sadface. My sadface turned into a panic face when Ivan and I got stuck in the elevator of my building between floors, but Ivan quickly saved the day and we jumped to safety. What a welcome back after a blissful, worry-free weekend! But, that's why those weekends are so important- getting out of the madness helps us deal better with the madness. 

I couldn't have asked for a better way to spend my entrance into a new decade. And now, in a mere four days, I am off again for Spring Break! Walli and I are heading to Ecudaor, where we will visit the Galapagos Islands and two mainland coastal cities- Guayaquil and Montanita. I will take lots of pictures and send a full report upon my return! 

Many thanks for all the birthday love I received from all of you last week as well. I have truly never felt so loved and blessed! Besos!

That day I really needed to phone a lifeline....

Today was one of those days that required a phone call home to Dad. I'll spare the details, but things were not good today, personally or professionally. I was confused, overwhelmed, exhausted. It was one of those moments when I was truly not sure if I was in the right or wrong, if I was walking forward or turning squarely behind. In this low moment, I called my Dad. Calling Dad is like drinking clear, cold spring water. He helped me clear my head, recognize my strengths and gain perspective I desperately needed. He reminded me that though I am living in a crazy place where tension and panic surrounds me every day, I have the insight and experience to deal with it.  I have lived a life that has instilled in me the tools I need to weather this storm.  I am capable, rational and able to pull apart the truth from the rumor, the danger from the panic, the reality from the hype. I needed to hear that from my Dad; I needed a little faith that I was on the right track. I got just what I needed, and between my Dad and few glasses of good wine, I am going move forward with confidence.

I feel so blessed to have my Dad, my Mom, and all my friends and family back home. Over the last few days I have many conversations with my loved ones back home that I desperately needed to have. I am SO LUCKY to have so many people willing to drop what they are doing to listen, reflect and support. It's been a tough week but boy, oh boy, am I a happy girl tonight. I couldn't ask for a better support system, either here in Venezuela or back home in the US. I know no matter what Venezuela brings me, I am going to take it in stride. On the eve of my thirtieth birthday, I feel that I am where I am supposed to be and there is nothing life can hand me that I will not overcome. What a wonderful feeling.

Break's a comin'

Caracas continues to go on day by day normally but with an air of anticipation. It's like no one trust the normalcy; people look warily around, waiting for an explosion. So far, the last two weeks has brought mainly calm. There are still some random disruptions, like today when people blocked the entire autopista during the rush hour in order to protest. You know, NBD. I was in my physical therapy appointment and my PTA couldn't get there. She finally arrived as I was leaving, over two hours late. My substitute PTA Shirley, simply said "Es la vida en Caracas- It is the life in Caracas." Indeed, it is the life we lead- constant uncertainty.

I am noticing that the constantly living on edge thing is effecting me differently that I expected. I expected to get all anxious again, like I was in DC, complete with TMJ, trouble sleeping and mild depression. I have not had any such symptoms. Instead, I find myself to be way more aggressive, angry and defensive than what is my usual. It's uncomfortable, carrying around anger like that- I can't decide what is worse, the anxiety or the anger. I chalk it up to rhetoric going around Venezuela right now.  All the talk about fascists and dictators and such keeps everyone on the defensive and looking for someone to point fingers at. Even though I live my life as normally as ever, the friction permeates the air and clearly has gotten under my skin.

Given this tense situation, I am looking forward to some of our travels coming up. Tuesday is my birthday and the following weekend my friends from work, Ivan, his Mom and I are flying to Los Roques for the weekend- I couldn't be more stoked. Then, one more week of work and we're off for spring break to Ecuador! Lots of good times ahead and a much needed break from the Caracas craziness! 

Apoligetic Venting

I have to admit- I am feeling a bit sheepish. Weeks ago, I wrote a rather bombastic, f-bomb-laced post about my abject disdain of President Asshat's policies, executive decisions and general behavior. Well, my feelings on this matter have not changed. However, I now find that my abject disdain has ballooned out to encompass not only Senor Asshat, but basically everyone.

In the beginning, I had a great deal of sympathy for the opposition. Despite being a "democracy", the current governing party in Venezuela, led by President Asshat, certainly behaves more like a socialist dictatorship than a functional democracy. Their decisions are often foolhardy, create obvious damage to the economy and only serve to further alienate the opposition. For example, while creating price controls on many businesses and products helped the poor, this policy completely ignored the obvious inflation the country is currently experiencing, and ran many businesses straight out of business. When the government requires you to sell your products for less than it costs to produce them, your obvious reaction is to close shop. Many of the shops sold out of products in December and never restocked or never reopened; many malls are barren.  And thus, the rampant shortages and continued scarcity are not only an independent problem, but they lead to violence. So the cycle continues.

No doubt the opposition has had reason to complain. It's not a good situation. And I can see that they are frustrated. Attempts made by both parties to work together are failed miserably. It's like there is no word for compromise in Spanish. They are at their wits end. People don't behave well on the edge- I know, I've been to counseling school, I get it. However, I guess I expected more from them.  More than using trash to set up road blocks, banging pots at 3 in the morning and creating dramatic twitter hashtags. They have real, legitimate concerns that demand addressing, yet they choose to keep kids from going to school and people from going their jobs in order to get their point across. I feel like I am living in an Onion article. 

"I couldn't go to work today. There was a tree, old mattress and some burning tires in the middle of the road because there is no toilet paper". Yep, that makes sense to me. 

"I'm repressed by a "dictatorial regime" and will voice my outcry by lighting trash on fire in the middle of the roadway....by a gas station." Brilliant.

The dramatic #sosvenezuela #prayforvenezuela twitter trends have proved a double edge sword. While they certainly raised the international awareness of the situation, they have also proved to hurt the cause. Posted pictures of Syria or the Ukraine passed off as taking place in Venezuela or bombastic tweets about violence or repression that turned out to be outright lies have eroded any legitimacy the twitter movement had. Now the "guarimbas", or the people out in the streets blocking roads and raising a racket, are not revolutionaries fighting for their freedom. They are literally just people standing in the middle of the road banging pots. 

The activities these members of the opposition have been engaging in over the last six weeks have only hurt their cause. Now, Venezuela still has violence and shortages. But now also the two sides are farther from discourse, farther from compromise and farther from solutions to the very legitimate problems this country is facing. And as for me? I now have a long list of Asshats. El Presidente is still at the top of the list, be he is certainly not alone.